(Work done around Dec 2015-April 2016)
As mentioned up in the suspension/brake section, I also swapped out the steering linkage (kind of important since the tie rod is what broke!). The I6 and V8 cars used different steering linkages from the factory. V8 cars got thicker, heavier parts and used a very slightly different linkage configuration. I figured it made sense to go ahead and swap out to the stronger V8 setup, since while I was still unsure about my future engine plans at the time, it did make the disc brake selection easier (there’s a couple different kits available for the 4-lug I6 spindles, but the setup I went with is a near-duplicate of the factory available disc brake configuration which makes finding parts simple) as well as just giving me peace of mind having the stronger parts installed.
I also went ahead and put in the roller idler arm from Opentracker. It’s supposed to make it smoother and I think have a little better feel. I didn’t notice a ton of difference, but it was down for a few months before I could drive it again, so it may be more obvious with a more front-to-back comparison.
After I got everything together again, I went ahead and did the alignment myself. I used a really basic camber gauge from Racer Parts Wholesale that just sits against the wheel lip and has a bubble level and a knob to work out the angle. I used that for the camber and caster. For the toe, I mainly used the string method that you can a bunch of guides for online. I used cheap vinyl floor tiles with wax paper in between them as turn plates. The specifications I aimed for were the ones that Opentracker lists on their website. I ended up with:
| Driver’s Side | Passenger’s Side | |
| Camber | -1/4° | -1/8° |
| Caster | +1.7° | +1.7° |
| Toe-in | 1/16” | 1/16” |
