65SSG Rebuild

10,000 miles, Weber carb, and others

I haven’t done all that much to the Mustang lately. I just haven’t all that much desire to work on it by the time I get home from work and everything :/ (plus a lack of money). I did hit the 10,000 mile marker this morning, so that’s cool I guess.

I have done just a few things here and there on it though. For one, I installed a Sunpro triple-gauge kit (oil pressure, coolant temp, voltage) right under the dash. I had the oil pressure gauge already, but figured an accurate temperature gauge would be good to have. Turns out it does stay right around 160F except for on the highway when it’s above 80F or so outside. It gets up to 180F or so then. I’ll probably try to remember to install a 180F or so thermostat when it cools off more.

Secondly, I also bought and put on a Weber 32/36 DGV manual choke carburetor awhile ago—but I ended up taking it back off. I used the Weber -> Holley/Autolite adapter from Classic Inlines combined with the Autolite/Holley -> 1 barrel adapter I already had. To keep the fuel pressure at about 3.5psi, I installed a Professional Products fuel pressure regulator. I also went with the standard Weber short rectangular air filter for it. For the throttle linkage, I basically made an extension to the factory throttle linkage rod to bring it just a little farther to the front of the car. The linkage seemed to mostly work alright, but could probably use a little more tweaking to get better angles.

As mentioned though, I did pull the Weber back off. It wasn’t running all that well. It was pretty weak off idle, requiring me to rev it quite a bit when getting moving to avoid stalling it. The Weber also seemed to cause some surging on the highway. I’m sure it just wasn’t jetted right. Since I haven’t gotten my wideband working yet and the jet kits are pretty expensive for it, I put the 1100 back on until I can get the Weber back on and tuned correctly.

Otherwise, all I’ve done is replace the harmonic balancer. The old one was still the original one, and the rubber was pretty cracked and falling apart. I replaced it with one from Classic Inlines made by Powerbond. It seems like a pretty nice piece. Easy enough to replace, just drain the coolant, pull the radiator, use a balancer puller to remove the old one, slide the new one on, tighten it down to the right torque spec, reinstall the radiator, and refill the coolant.

I have pictures for most of the stuff I’ve done, but haven’t gotten them off my camera and sorted yet. Hopefully I can do that and add them to this post soon.

Post edited 3/23/14: Well it took me approximately forever, but here’s the pictures! Finally…